Despite having the last name of Murphy, three grandparents with heavy Irish accents and growing up in the predominantly Irish Southside of Chicago – – or maybe because of it – – I never had a desire to visit Ireland. But twenty years ago, after being required to accompanying my elderly mother on a trip to the home of our ancestors, much to my surprise, I fell in love with the “old country” the first time I set foot on its soil.
It was a feeling deep in my gut . . a feeling like I had finally come “home.” I don’t know if it was the crazy two-hour drive on the wrong side of the road from Shannon to Killarney with my mother in the back seat frantically and repeatedly telling me to move to the other side of the road and my daughter and me in the front seat terrified yet thrilled to be navigating the narrow twisting roads in the dark or . . . . if it was it the warm-hearted “welcome home!” greeting we received when we stopped in a little pub for directions. Or maybe it was waking up the first morning to the wonderful and multiple shades of green outside my window and the sounds of gentle laughter coming from the kitchen below of our B & B.
All I know is that I was smitten. No, more than that. Time spent in Ireland seems to rejuvenate my soul. Since that first visit, I’ve traveled Ireland numerous times: with family, with friends and with colleagues from work; but with each visit I always make sure I have time to be alone. I need that time alone to allow the tranquility of the countryside, the softness in the air, the mist from the sea, the laughter from people to soak into my pores, my soul, my psyche.
Well, now that I’ve declared my undying attachment to that little island, I’d like to share with you just a few of the places I like to go and things I like to do while visiting the land with which I’ve become enamored. For what it’s worth here they are:
Dublin is an interesting city and full of historic sites, but I don’t usually go to Ireland to visit another big city. I go to Ireland to soak in its amazing beauty, interact with its warm-hearted, witty people, reveal in its sometime lively and sometimes haunting traditional music and, of course, to visit its pubs. In my experience, these are best found in the west of Ireland.
Two of my grandparents came from the west of Ireland and that’s where many of our relatives still live; so that may have something to do with my love affair with the west coast of that lovely country.
After leaving Dublin, my first stop is usually Doolin in County Clare. I am sure that the Cliffs of Moher and driving through the Burren are already on your list of things to do. But one of the towns I would not miss is Doolin. Known for the traditional music played in the local pubs, Doolin is situated right on the ocean. If you visit Doolin walk to the end of the road (the road that passes in front of the pubs) and stroll along the coastline. It’s rugged and beautiful. If you enjoy horseback riding nothing is more invigorating than an early morning a ride on the beach. There also are a lot of nice hiking trails near Doolin. An exceptionally beautiful 12 mile hiking trail is right on the ocean between the Cliffs of Moher and Doolin. If you are up for a long hike, start at the Cliffs and hike to Doolin and you’ll be rewarded with some of the most outstanding views in Ireland – – with the sea on one side and the lush countryside on the other. Then when you arrive in Doolin you can recuperate with a bite to eat, a pint, and maybe a little traditional music, at one of the many pubs.
Gus O’Connor’s Pub – located on the picturesque main street – is one of the most famous. They offer traditional Irish music on the weekends and is a place you can bring the entire family. Children are welcome in pubs throughout Ireland. I would say that the pubs are for meals as well as a little libation. 😉
When in Doolin, we usually stay at the Seaview House B&B; its well situated on a hill that that overlooks the town and the sea. But there are many well-run B & B’s in Doolin and most within walking distance of the pubs.
The Aran Islands are off the coast of Claire and Limerick. In fact, one of the ferries leaves from Doolin. I believe another ferry leaves from Galway Bay. If you go to the Aran Islands, pick a calm day as the crossing can be pretty rough if the seas are up— although it’s not a long journey.
I love the Aran Islands. They’re probably my most favorite place on earth. To me, the Irish phrase “a terrible beauty” comes from what you see there. It must be the rockiest place on earth; the islands are made up of limestone. There is mile after mile of stone walls and that, combined with the limestone and greenery is breathtakingly beautiful.
I visit the Aran Islands to hike, walk, or bike and take in the fresh sea air. (Be warned, it’s quite hilly). The largest of the Aran Islands and the one most visited is Inishmore (the two smaller ones are Inishmaan and Inisheer). There are only about 1200 people who live year round on Inishmore and most speak Irish (but are fluent in English too).
You can also take a ride in one of those horse-drawn carriages with the tour guide who will take you to its many Celtic monuments and churches. Before heading back to the mainland, stop for a pint, fish and chips and traditional music in one of their pubs.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . to be continued…………………………………..
Growing up in Chicago in the '50's 
